Wednesday, February 28, 2007

King Neptune, Apartheid Day, and so much more!

Now I can fill you in on this past week at sea. There never seems to be a free moment to sit down, collect my thoughts and then type them up in any coherent way. But lucky for me, the big guy upstairs decided to intercede on my behalf and provide me with the time. You see, I did a stupid thing during my last meal in Cape Town. I sat down for dinner, popped a couple of Pepto, and then ordered a Coke. It was served with a glass of ice. I poured my Coke over the ice and took a couple of sips before I realized what I was doing. Drinking the water in Salvador is a very bad idea, and that includes the ice. I poured my Coke into an empty glass and hoped that there would be no ill effect, but I was wrong. Two days later, Dr. Matt proudly informed the ship that for the first time ever, S@S left Brazil without any reportable cases of diarrhea from the Amazon. He extolled the virtues of Pepto Bismol and we were all proud of ourselves. By that point I was already having some tummy rumbling, and was already suffering a bit of Montezuma’s Revenge, but I chalked it up to the lack of fiber in our ship diets. But two more days passed, and I developed flu-like symptoms, and though I tried to push through and be a productive little RD, I knew something was amiss. I stopped into the Medical Clinic to chat with my friends who work there and just ask what I should take for the poopie problem. They suggested I actually start a course of Cipro and continue with Tylenol for the flu stuff. 10 minutes later, Emily, the nurse, found me in Purser’s Square to deliver the news that the two doctor’s on board had discussed it, and decided I needed to be quarantined. I went back down to the Med Clinic to fill out paperwork to send off to the CDC and officially became the first CDC reportable case of persistent diarrhea for the Spring 07 trip. So as a result, I have been shut in my cabin for the last 22 ½ hours, ad will likely be here at least 8 or so more. Now if I was at home, this would be OK. But on the ship, it drives one crazy. There are only 2 real TV channels, and they only run in the evenings. I can quote every line from The Constant Gardener and Harry Potter: Prizoner of Azkaban having now seen them no less than 4 times each (I’m not exaggerating). Also, they deliver meals to my cabin b/c I can’t leave. However, they deliver normal sized portions of food and I’m a big guy who needs more, especially since most of the food is passing through me pretty quick (catch my drift?). The other downer is that it cost me the first lecture by Archbishop Desmond Tutu this morning. I was going to sneak out and watch from the back of the classroom, but they take this quarantine stuff seriously. He’s lecturing tomorrow as well, so I am praying they let me out by then. But… at least it’s letting me catch up on my electronic correspondence, and my sleep. See, there’s always a silver lining if you look hard enough. So far, my journey seems to be full of fecal-focused stories. Sorry for any readers who are offended, but hey…. Shit happens (and in my case, all too often!).
So let’s back up and relate some of the fun shipboard happenings as of late. In the 8 days we are at sea between Brazil and South Africa we have lost 5 hours. There was a stretch for 3 days in a row where we lost an hour every day. It’s strange how one little hour can throw things off, but when that is compounded day after day and over a week it can be brutal. I am sure it didn’t help my health issues any. Ugh (again!). Quickly after we got back on board from Salvador, talk moved to Neptune Day. Committees formed, and veiled threats were issued from “The Voice” about how we had angered Mighty King Neptune since we did not pause when passing the Equator to pay homage and proper respect. He would be exacting his revenge on Neptune Day. Knowing that shaving heads was a part of the celebration I allowed my head to be raffled off so that some lucky student could shave it as part of the day’s activities. I was a self-proclaimed “hair whore” and begged/pleaded/demanded students buy raffle tickets to cut my hair and did pretty good at raising money for our Students of Service. I think there were about 30 tickets in my bag by the end. One of the guys upstairs, Perry, was the big winner. He was upset about his own haircut, and took his frustrations out on my head. I’ll try to upload a picture of my new S@S haircut and my barber.
You’ll note I am covered with hair in the picture. I now remember why I decided to grow out my hair. Ugh, what a strangely shaped head. Neptune Day was a lot of fun. But before I can get to it, I have to start two nights prior. One of our female students, Zeona, organized an event called “Rock the Hawk” in anticipation of Neptune Day. The idea is that women who had long hair could cut it and donate it to Locks of Love, a charity that takes hair donations and creates wigs for children with Cancer. I am familiar with the charity since the Mesa Court Council works with them back at UCI. Well, this small event became HUGE. Almost 30 women cut their hair to donate, and then shaved Mohawks. And in a display of solidarity, many of the men did as well. One of our lifelong learners had the students shave her a Mohawk as well, and it was one of the biggest moments of the night. Everyone was chanting Donna’s name, and spiking her Mohawk and taking pictures with her. For the night Grandma Mohawk was the coolest 78 year old around. We actually had students asking if we could suspend the alcohol service, or even cancel it in order to extend the event since it was being held on the Pool Deck. I was beaming on the inside at the big success. RD Lesley deserved a lot of credit for making the event happen. So for one day there were about 60 or so Mohawks walking around the ship.
On the morning of Neptune Day, the crew paraded through all of the decks at 7am dressed in Grecian robes with painted faces and shields. They drummed on pots and pans, and banged on doors to rouse the students from the slumber. The parade wandered around the ship for a good 45 minutes. They must have hit every hallway and deck 3 times. I was anticipating the parade and was able to snap a few pictures as they passed my door. Then I followed them around the ship for awhile, along with a few others. Many of the students who hadn’t been expecting it, answered their doors with the most quizzical looks on their faces. I wish I had snapped some pictures of them as well. A little while later “The Voice” told us all to meet out by the pool for the Neptune festivities. We gathered around the pool and awaited the arrival of the royal court. I’d say about 1/3 of the shipboard community was present, and another 1/3 wandered out to the deck during the show. The crew paraded in and were followed by King Neptune, Queen Minerva, and their court. King Neptune was played by our esteemed Captain Jeremy. He was wearing what looked like a grass skirt, a wig of braided rope and some kind of headdress. That’s all he had on. Every other part of him was covered with green body paint (face and all). Now, mind you… Captain Jeremy is a big man, both tall and portly, so he was both imposing and humorous. He looked to me like The Hulk’s befuddled English uncle. Does that make sense? However, when he spoke, his British accent made it all work, and he seemed regal despite the green body paint. Queen Minerva was played superbly by our Executive Dean Larry. He was in a similar wig, and Grecian gown with ample bosom. Our Academic Dean Mike played Master of Ceremonies and had us all recite our oath to the sea. King Neptune made some threats and then decided we needed to prove our worth before he would allow us to continue sailing into his southern realm. One by one we walked into pool area where the crew poured a filthy briny brew over our heads. I am not sure what was in the milky white substance, but it smelled like turned milk & fish guts and it stunk to high heaven (and so did we after getting it on us). After getting the gunk on the head you were “baptized” by jumping into the pool. Then each pollywog had to walk out of the pool and kiss two fish on the lips. These were huge yellowtail fish with big toothy mouths. I did my duty and gave them each a smootch. Then you had to kneel and pay your respects to King Neptune and kiss his ring. If he you counted you worthy, then you were allowed to be “knighted” and thus evolved from a scurrilous pollywog to a mighty shellback. Now, King Neptune is a finicky God. Not everyone who kissed his ring was deemed worthy. He regularly would throw people back into the pool if they did not sufficiently prostrate themselves, or did a poor job fish-kissing. Thankfully, I needed but one attempt. Hundreds and hundreds of people went through the initiation ceremony that day. It was so much fun. After the ceremony, the shaving of heads took place. That’s when Perry stole my curly locks from me. But I was able to grab some scissors and shears and exacted my own revenge on many a willing head. I don’t know what the end count was on shaven heads, but I think we set a new record between the Neptune Day shaves and the Rock the Hawk shaves. A lot of the Mohawks were shorn off, but many of the women (and men) decided they liked the Mohawk look and kept them rather thank losing it all. There are a few pictures of all the “baldies” but I think it only shows about 2/3 of the people who actually got Neptune haircuts. I think about 10-15 more people donated their hair for Locks of Love on Neptune Day. I know that many of the donations were not long enough to use for wigs, but the charity can sell the hair and use the money for their cause as well. Either way, our students helped out which is what really matters. Neptune Day ended with a big outdoor BBQ by the pool on 7th deck. It’s fun to see the whole community come together and realize how quickly everyone seems to have bonded.
My other big pet project for this part of our voyage was a shipboard Apartheid Day Simulation. All the pieces came together in a great way. I initially proposed the idea to our Diversity Programming Committee and to Beth, the DSL and the Executive & Academic Deans. They all liked the idea, and once it got the blessing, I put it into action. I worked with Dan Christie, the Global Studies Professor, to make sure that the GS curriculum discussed Apartheid before the simulation and then yesterday, immediately following Global Studies, I got to be “The Voice” for a brief moment and explain the rules to the shipboard community. All the Baldies & Mohawk folks became the privileged class and were able to use the entire ship as they saw fit. Everyone who still had hair became the Non-privileged class. They were restricted from using the pool deck & bistro, the Garden Lounge Dining Room (which is the more popular dining room), all elevators, and all public restrooms. They were also expected to give up their computer in the lab or gym equipment if one of the privileged class came around and wanted their space. What’s more, the hairy folks were not allowed to sun by the pool, get the 10 o’clock snack, or attend the AFTer Hours beverage Service. There were monitors from the Diversity Programming Committee who made sure people understood the rules, and they were stationed around the ship to do so. Signs were posted all over the ship indicating “Shaved Heads Have Priority.” Immediately following the announcement, there was an uproar! I loved it, and so did many of the administrators and folks around the ship. There were silent protests, and one professor and a few students even organized a sit in outside the reserved dining room. They created protest banners and chanted and sang protest songs. I stopped by to see their protest and they began chanting “Down with Drew.” I let them know I loved their protest, and reminded them that I did not invent the concept of Apartheid (which garnered some laughs). I also reminded them that had they actually been protesting Apartheid in South Africa decades ago, their protest would have ended in their arrest and likely in bloodshed. The simulation was off to a great start. The monitors were furious. They felt like people weren’t taking the simulation seriously, and that the protestors were changing the whole scenario. They wanted to add rules and throw up more barriers for the non-privilege class. It was so fascinating to see how quickly their attitudes shifted from monitoring and observing the event to becoming the police/enforcers/”the Man” (these are the names they gave themselves). Dr. Matt (the ship’s doctor) and a couple students decided, almost immediately, that the Faculty/Staff Lounge should be a part of the simulation as well. Dr. Matt went to Dean Larry & Mike and they agreed, so signs were posted and the bald students moved themselves into the 7th deck. This infuriated some of the faculty. Two of them cornered me and yelled at me for a full 5 minutes (in front of some students) about how this was an awful idea and that the whole simulation would rip apart the community. They went on to say that Faculty needed their lounge in order to communicate with one another and grade papers. Just where were they expected to do their work now that there were students in their lounge? I have to admit, I wasn’t quite prepared for their anger. I later learned that another professor (who I generally think is pretty nice) stormed into the lounge about an hour later and tore down all the signs and rudely kicked the students out of the lounge. I guess some of the faculty felt that this simulation was not a lesson they needed to learn. There were some awesome exceptions though. Toni Zimmerman, a faculty member I adore, worked it into her lesson plans. Her husband shaved his head, so she and her young daughters spent the entire day apart from him and she had some great conversations with them about Apartheid. So many folks were so supportive of the whole thing. And then… right in the middle of it all…. I was quarantined. Yes, the timing could not have been worse. I had to leave the simulation I created, the mess I made, and drop it into the laps of my colleagues and peers b/c I had the runs. I’ve heard some reports that the rest of the simulation went really well, and Beth stopped by a little while ago to say that the Student Life Team and the Executive Team all had great conversations today about how well it had gone. I just feel so bad that I started the ball rolling and then was sidelined. Boo! I’m still licking my wounds. This morning, just as global studies was ending, Ron (“The Voice”) came over the intercom announcing the end of the Apartheid Day Simulation. All I want to do is get out of my cabin and find out just what was ending. I’m hopeful I’ll be released tonight in time to facilitate the debrief/open mic where people can come and share their feeling about the whole experience.

Other Diversity & Spiritual Happenings… The Jew Crew had a great seder dinner. They all dressed up and had a nice evening with one another. They’ll be repeating it every Friday at sea, and I’ve made sure that they will have a loaf of challah to break from now on. We’ve also made some good headway on our big Passover celebration. Sadly, Passover falls during the time we are in port. Normally, this would be a good thing, b/c it would allow our observant students the chance to find a local synagogue to celebrate, but we will be in Malaysia which is a 100% Islamic nation. We have heard that there is a sizable ex-pat community in Panang, so we’re hoping that the student’s rabbis back at home can make some connections so the students can observe in port. Once we leave Penang, we will be holding a Passover seder on the ship for anyone who would like to celebrate and learn more about the Jewish holiday. I’ve been working with the hotel staff on the ship and they seem to be willing to move heaven and earth to make things possible for our students. I really appreciate that about them. We’re also going to try and have a Purim Dance on the ship as well. Purim will officially be next week while we’re in Cape Town, but it will make for a fun night on the ship where everyone can go in costume and live out a personality totally opposite of who they are. I think people will get a real kick out of it.

Our Christian students have developed some terrific Bible Study small groups. I’ve walked past them a few times and paused to hear some great conversations taking place. This past Sunday was our first Non-Denominational Christian Worship Service. A group of our women students put it together, and I am so proud of what they accomplished. It was full of music, with lyrics on powerpoint for everyone to sing along. They made sure that the service was truly inclusive and non-denominational so that all would feel welcome. I think it ended up being something foreign for everyone present, but it seemed to be very well received. I’m excited to see how it evolves in the coming weeks. Plans are still in the works for our Easter service. I’m still hopeful that the Archbishop will offer to conduct a service for our shipboard community. We’ll see. He continues to hold his Sunday morning Eucharist services, and I’ve been tapped to find folks to attend. The students I invite are always SO grateful. It’s like I have presented a great gift to them. How lucky am I to be able to bestow such a present. Huh? Now finding faculty to attend is not so easy. This past week, I was turned down by 3 different faculty members for the service. They were very polite in declining (mostly) and had good reasons for doing so, but I was still surprised. Ah well, such is life.

The People of Color are becoming a strong and cohesive group and being very proactive at addressing their concerns in the community. They are also a group full of fun personalities. I really enjoy them individually and collectively. Interestingly, there is still not a single Asian student in their midst. I know that research says that many Asian students do not choose to identify in that way, but I figured that at least 1 of the 33 on board would have done so. But as I type this and reflect, there are a couple of students who are involved who are biracial and/or Indian. That’s a good reminder that I need to keep my own misconceptions in check. Our LGBTA/Gay-Straight Alliance is also doing well. They are big on ideas and energy. I’m hoping that Ryan and Aya (the student leaders) will be able to translate that into action. They had their third meeting last night while I was in quarantine. I sincerely hope they finally decided on a name b/c the brainstorming went on forever. As I say that it sounds like this frustrated me, but nothing could be farther from the truth. I love their energy. I wouldn’t want to stifle that creativity one iota. Our women’s group has now dubbed themselves the WAVES. It’s an acronym that I can’t remember. I know the W is for Women, the A for Achieving, and the V is for Victory. I don’t want to foul it up and guess the rest. They are doing really well also thanks to leaders RD Melanie, and Emily, RD Tom’s partner. The Diversity Programming Committee is starting to plan some great programs as well. There are programs on Food Waste, and understanding that English isn’t predominant in the world, and a program on the plight of women in many of the nations we will visit. There are also programs like a day of silence for oppressed people, a hunger banquet, and one highlighting the positive impact of the rainbow culture in Mauritius where many cultures have blended peacefully. The next program they’ll be doing is on the Middle Passage, or the route that slave traders used to bring enslaved Africans to the new world. The students are going to do a dock side ceremony to honor the lives lost. I’m impressed by the reverence with which they are approaching the topic.

Finally, today the student life staff had our bridge tour. It’s literally on the other side of the wall from the Student Life Office, but behind locked doors, so you’d almost never know it was there. It was really cool to see the front of the ship from the Captain’s seat. He came up and chatted with us a bit. It seems that he doesn’t actually spend much time on the bridge. His officers are the ones who do most of the real engineering work. The instrumentation panels looked so complicated, but it was interesting to see that there is always an officer on the bridge just scanning the horizon with a pair of binoculars in case something pops up. (I’m not 100% sure they weren’t pulling our leg about that, but there was an offer doing it while we were there). The ship was Built in 1999 in Germany and commissioned in 2000 to a Greek company. It was originally called the Olympia Explorer and has a sister ship named the Olympia Voyager. There are plaques of St. Nicholas on the walls of the bridge and throughout the ship. St. Nick is the patron saint of sailors and the seas in the Greek Orthodox church. Even though the ship is now registered in Nassau, they leave the plaques so as not to invite any negative karma. Cool stuff, huh?

Well, that brings my blog up to date. (I think). There’s always stuff going on, so I know I am leaving out a ton. But now I am going to turn my attention to Africa. Tonight is the Cultural Pre-port (assuming I am out of quarantine), and a trip leader meeting for my safari. I can’t believe in another day I will be on the African continent. I never expected to do an African safari, and sure enough I am less than a week away. Sheesh, I say. Sheesh!

I’ll take tons of pictures so you all can suffer through them with me later. Much love to all at home. XOXO –me.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Tchau Brazil!!!

Here we are, sailing the ocean blue. Today, as I sat in my Student Life Meeting enjoying the fact that I am no longer sea sick, but agonizing over my newly acquired head cold, I looked out over the water to the horizon. The water out here is really beautiful. It’s an amazing shade of blue. It looks like blue tempera paint. You know, the kind you used back in Kindergarten when you fingerpainted with paints that were so bright and rich that they never really existed in nature. Remember? That’s what the ocean looks like out here. We are about 300 miles out of South America and we saw a small patch of land called “I. Martin Vaz.” It looked like a strange outcrop of rocks rising out of the water in the middle of nowhere. It was desolate and devoid of any signs of life. But it’s the only land we’re going to be seeing for awhile. It’s our second day back on the ship since leaving Brazil and I am still processing my time there. We had our Cultural and Logistal Pre-port briefings in anticipation of our time in Brazil, and I learned a great deal about this huge mysterious country. Specifically, I learned all about the area of Salvador de Bahia. Salvador is in the northern part of Brazil, and the metro area is the 3rd largest in Brazil. It is the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture. Brazil has major issues and racial tensions in their population. This played out in many different ways during the trip. We learned that, much like in the US, people are treated better when they have lighter skin. Additionally, there is more wealth associated with the lighter-skinned parts of the country. Many Afro-Brazilians came to Salvador from the areas of the interior to look for work, and have subsequently ended up creating huge favelas through out the city. These favelas are similar to slums, but the majority of the population lives there. Also, Salvador, being so African influenced, has a unique blending of religions. This mixture is called Candomblé. It mixes traditional Catholicism (Brazil has the greatest Catholic population of any nation) with traditional African religions. The result is churches with many different folk traditions, and prayers/holidays built around many different deities called Orixás. The area around Salvador is also pretty economically depressed, again in part to the high African population, and other industry factors. We learned about the music of Brazil and Carnival, and about all the foods and traditions. But, the most important thing we learned was how dangerous this port was going to be. To listen to the pre-port briefings, you’d think that a good 50% of our population was destined to be maimed, robbed, and possibly killed. I think the desired effect was to scare the students so they wouldn’t spend their entire time getting drunk and making victims of themselves. It worked to some extent. Hell, it scared me. However, I made it through unscathed. I woke early the morning we pulled into Salvador in order to get a good view of the city as we pulled into port. The city had a hazy cloud cover that made it seem shrouded in mystery. The bay is very large, so it seemed that there was land all around us. As we pulled into the dock area we could hear loud music and voices cheering in the distance. A bunch of us realized that it was Carnival revelers still partying at 6am from the night before. It turned out to be an accurate a preview of the days to come. We pulled into the port, which seemed very industrial. But we later learned that the main part of the city was not far from the docks. Salvador is a divided city. There is the Cidada Alta up on a hill above the waterfront, and the Cidada Baixa which fronts the water and then descends down to the other side of the bay. In order to travel from the Cidada Baixa to the Cidada Alta one must take a huge elevator called the Lacerda Elevador. The elevator was free during Carnival (lucky us) but is usually 5 centavos per trip. As we pulled into the port we could see the Lacerda Elevator in the distance taking people to the upper area of the city. Immigration came on board and we had to again march every person on the ship through the process of a face-to-face meeting with the immigration officials. Evidently the US has made it very difficult for Brazilian citizens to receive visas and to travel to the US. As a result, Brazilian officials have done the same in return and take extra care to scrutinize all American travelers. This is not the case for any other nationalities visiting Brazil. Interesting, huh? I guess turnabout is fair play. At any rate, we learned our lessons from Puerto Rico and the process went quickly and smoothly. Then we had our Diplomatic Briefing by a woman from the US Embassy in Salvador. The woman’s name was Heather, and she proceeded to give us the worst presentation EVER. First she interrogated the shipboard community to find out what we knew about the issues Salvador and Brazil faced, and then if we could list the resources and relative successes of the country. I think she must have fancied herself a professor in front of her pupils, but it was awful. Thankfully our Academic Dean, Mike Maniates (an awesome guy) interceded on our collective behalves. Next, Heather went on to scare everyone by telling us how dangerous things were in Salvador and Rio during Carnival. That as white people (mostly) we would stick out as victims, and we should be prepared to deal with the criminal element. She finished this lovely presentation by relating a story about a recent event in Rio. Evidently, things are so dangerous in the Brazilian cities, that the traffic laws do not require people to stop their cars at the traffic lights. Well, when this woman stopped at the light b/c the car in front of her was stopped, she was carjacked by a group of men. She and her daughter got out of the car, but her 5 year old son did not make it fully out of the car, and was evidently dragged 7 miles by his leg caught in the seatbelt. The carjackers never bothered to stop even though cars and observers tried to alert them. The 5 year old died, and it caused a big national stir discussing crime in Brazil. Yes, this is the uplifting story that dear Heather decided to relate to us as a welcoming message to Brazil. Oh boy… not a good sign. Eventually, we cleared the ship, and slowly everyone disembarked. This process took forever b/c the gangway was on the 5th deck, which meant everyone had to walk down the loooong rickety staircase to get to the dock. I was one of the last to make it off the ship with Dan, and Tom (fellow RDs) and Emily, Tom’s partner, Joe the video guy, JP the AV guy and his wife Shannon. As we descended the gangway we were greeted by an Afro-Brazilian steel drum band serenading us, and 4 Bahian women dressed in native costume welcoming us and tying Lembraça to our wrists. There is a church in Salvador called Igreja do Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, which is beautiful and ornate and unique for all the Candomblé influences. Also, there are wax body parts hanging in one of the rooms of the churche for all the miracles performed to heal people there. It was surreal indeed. Anyways, the church creates and gives away colorful ribbons that say “Lembraça do Senhor Do Bonfim” in large block letters. Legend has it that you tie the ribbon around your wrist with three knots. With each knot, you make a wish. Leave the ribbon on your wrist, and once it falls off, the wish will come true. So as I stepped off the ship, I had my lembraça tied by a lovely Bahian woman, and made my wishes. The people in Salvador de Bahia call themselves Bahians (pronounced Ba-ee-an… no “h”). In fact, the whole area is really referred to as Bahia, and rarely Salvador.


Next we all walked from the port area to the Modelo Mercado, the big market close to the Lacerda Elevator. It seemed like a giant tourist trap (which it was) but was once the main market for the city. We shopped around a bit, and I honed my tactic or pretending to look disinterested and ignore people talking directly to me. It goes against my nature b/c I try to make a point of acknowledging everyone I encountered, especially those people generally ignored by those around them. However, I am learning to put on a “New Jersey attitude” as my colleague Tom calls it. I do know that the word I used more than any other during my walks through Salvador was “não” which means no. It felt weird to say, b/c it is pronounced like a nasally “now.” So while I was declining people’s offers to sample their wares, I felt like I was really telling them I wanted them to hurry up. Most peculiar. After shopping, we all grabbed lunch at a restaurant nearby. It was clearly a place for locals, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The place was called Restaurante de Maria do São Pedro. Long name, huh? We settled in and enjoyed the lazy Brazilian afternoon. We didn’t have much of a choice b/c Brazilians move very slowly, and lunch took forever. Dan and I agreed to share a dish, and felt adventurous so we ordered a “specialty” without any idea what it was going to be. But the “Segreda de Maria” turned out to be pretty good. It was black eyed beans cooked with chicken and spices in palm oil. Everything in northern Brazil is cooked in palm oil, called Dende. The odd thing about it, is that eating enough dende oil can kill you pretty quick, yet they’ve been doing it forever. I figured “when in Brazil…” The ship’s doctor recommended popping two Peptos before every in-port meal from Brazil through Vietnam in order to avoid traveler’s diarrhea. I’m glad I did, b/c Dan did not, and he paid for it later. At any rate, the Segreda was good. It came with a dish that had little yellow piles of what looked like cornmeal. I tried a little and discovered it was manioc flour, which is a BIG ingredient in most northern Brazilian cuisine. It has a distinct smell to it, but the texture is like sand in your mouth, and not too tasty. I know I’m painting a great picture. I added a little to the Segreda to be adventurous. We were also given a typical side dish called Vatapá, which is manioc flour cooked with fish water and spices, and some vegetables. It looked like baby puke, but I enjoyed it until I learned what all the ingredients were.

After lunch, most of the folks went back to the ship in order to get ready for some field programs, but Dan and I headed over to the Lacerda Elevator for a trip to the upper city. We were told that the only way to travel to the upper city was by taxi, or the Lacerda Elevator. There were many footpaths to take, and several sets of stairs, but we were told that under NO circumstances should we ever, EVER venture up the stairs… day or night. With a warning like that, you better believe I avoided the stairs. The main part of the upper city is the Pelourinho (or the Pelo for short). The Pelo is where all the old parts of the city are, and the main cultural heart of Salvador. Pelourinho means “Whipping Post” and signifies the square where enslaved Africans were tortured and sold. Gives you that warm toasty feeling inside, huh? Anyways, during Carnival the city is decorated with banners and ribbons, and all sorts of colorful signs and bunting. It is also overrun with garbage and urine and filth. It was a strange combination. The architecture was Colonial and colorful, and quite nice with cobble stone streets that crisscrossed up and down hills in a strange manner I didn’t quite understand. There were large representations of Afro-Brazilian women in native dress and banners cheering on the revelers of Carnival. My favorite was huge metal pinwheels high in the air that had images of these women spinning in the breeze in a carefree way. The feeling was celebratory, and reminded me of New Orleans (pre-Katrina) during Mardi Gras… both festive and fun, but also slightly trashy and dirty. In the main square, we found a band of kids in a drum corp marching through the streets. They were cute, and having so much fun. I snapped a couple pictures. From what I gathered, the kids can perform in the afternoons as a warm-up to the main event in the evening.

Being the early afternoon, the day was just getting started. People were beginning to fill the Pelo in anticipation of another night of Carnival. As we walked around, Dan and I saw groups of men dressed in drag. Each group was dressed in a different theme. A group of babydoll men, a group of girl scout men, a group of sailor girl men, a big group of men all wearing pink fishnet body stockings with small black tutus and bowties and shiny gold wigs. My favorites were the men dressed as what looked like Bat Girl. It turned out that these men were actually police offices dressed up for Carnival. The men would pose and preen when you took their picture and were having a grand old time. Everyone nearby would respond to them with glee, and assure visitors that they were indeed straight, but that the drag was just a part of Carnival. (A strange, but fun part if you ask me). I got some great pics for my post-trip slide show. While Dan spent some time calling his girlfriend, I sat in the main square and watched a group of men do Capoeira. Capoeira is a native sport in Brazil. African slaves were brought to Brazil by the Portuguese (more Africans were enslaved in Brazil, than in any other part of the world). Capoeira is practiced as a dance-fight-game that looks intense and beautiful at the same time. It was suppressed for a long time b/c it it created a sense of unity for the African community in Brazil, and b/c it created skilled fighters within the enslaved population. In effect, Capoeira was a martial art that was disguised as a dance that could be practiced unbeknownst to the white slave owners. It is really fascinating to watch, and clearly athletic since I didn’t see one person doing Capoeira with more than 2% body fat. Sheesh! While waiting for Dan, I also felt adventurous enough to sample some street food called Acarajé which is essentially pork and vegetables inside a manioc flour shell and then fried in Dende oil (yea, the poisonous stuff, go figure). It was tasty, but one was definitely enough. Luckily, most of the things sold on the streets were pretty cheap. Brazil currency is called the Real, or Reais when plural. Each Real are divided into 100 Centavos. The exchange rate right now is about 2 Real for each US Dollar. So we made out pretty good there. Dan and I walked around and got a lot of pictures, and enjoyed all the sights and sounds of Carnival. There is tremendous energy in the city. Everything felt like it was in anticipation of a huge debaucherous party.

We took a quick break and wandered into the other main church in the Pelo called the Igreja São Francisco which has many interesting depictions of Christ in all sorts of agony. Every crucifix, or statue of saints were covered in painted blood, or had intestines spilling out, or huge spikes thrust into them. It was pretty gruesome. It was very different from the peaceful serene depictions of Christ and saints I’m used to seeing in more Western churches. After looking around the church, Dan and I took a few wrong turns and ended up in the lower city on a back street. It wasn’t quite the “bad neighborhood” but it clearly was not the touristy area. The backstreet no longer had touristy souveniers to pick out and haggle over, but sold normal clothes and other amenities. Most of the shops were closing up in anticipation of the evening Carnival festivities, when most of the city would wake up, shake off their hangovers, and begin to party anew. During Carnival, almost all businesses close. This includes banks, post offices, and most stores. But the touristy places do a brisk business. Eventually, Dan and I found our way back to the Pelo, and then down the giant Lacerda Elevator to the ship.

While I didn’t necessarily feel victimized in Salvador, I also did not really feel 100% safe either. I definitely was glad I was not alone. Since it was daylight, I brought my camera with me, but if I wasn’t taking a picture, then it was in my pocket with my hand wrapped around it. I later heard stories of students who did become victims. A group of women were held up at knife point, one young man was hit over the head and robbed when he ventured into an alley to take a leak, and one other student, Hunter, was surrounded by a group of kids who fished all his belongings out of his pockets, and even stole the t-shirt off his back. The most ironic part is that the T-shirt said “Peace” across the front.

My next stop was a dip in the ship pool. I’ve decided that any chance I get to pop into the pool without a throng of students floating about I’m gonna take. I chit-chatted with a few of them and learned of their plans to go experience Carnival. Some had purchased special t-shirts to be a part of a camarote. In Salvador there are large parades called Blocos, and they party down the street. On the sides of the street different groups create large grandstands, called camarotes, and have private parties to watch the parades go by. You have to pay admission to the grandstand and there is usually free booze and whatnot there. Also, the camarotes are the only safe places to view the bloco parades. The entry ticket is a special carnival tshirt to identify you as “in.” The students were proudly displaying their shirts and the outlandish outfits they planned to wear when they went out for the night. A few of the male students planned to wear just Speedos and sneakers. They were going with the “when in Brazil” mentality. I left them and got dressed to go to dinner with some of the RDs and other staff members. On my way back to my cabin I passed my friend Dia, the Registrar and fellow UVA alum, who was taking a group of students to be a part of a Trio Electrico. The trios are the largest of the Salvador Carnival bloco parades. They involve HUGE groups of revelers (all wearing their t-shirt tickets) following enormous trucks with huge speakers playing loud Carnival music. They are called trio electricos b/c the first one was a pick-up truck driving down the street with two men playing electric guitars. Two guys with guitars? Why is it called a trio? (you might ask). Well, the third guy was the driver. Ha! Anyways, I knew they were going to have a great time and regretted not applying for that trip. So I met up with the RDs and we stopped off in Purser’s Square to get some advice on where to go to dinner, and I found a bunch of the students dressed in the same bright orange t-shirts for the trio electrico. It turns out that one of the students had independently arranged for a group to join the trio as well. They had one last t-shirt/ticket and were very persuasive. After making apologies, and literally running to my cabin to change clothes and grab some cash to pay for the t-shirt (it was $150!!!) I jumped in a cab with the students and we headed to the trio. The cab ride took us through the favelas in Salvador to the other side of the city. The other side of the bay has all sorts of expensive hotels and apartment buildings and clubs, bars, restaurants, etc. all fronting on a nice beach. It was a surprise to see after the old style Pelourinho and the favelas. We found the Trio Electrico Jammill and joined the parade. Each night of Carnival a different trio electrico would parade down the Circuito Dodô, and we were told that the Trio Electrico Jammill was the biggest and best, and I believe that to be true. Only the best for me, right? He he… At any rate, I was completely unprepared for what I had joined. While many students had purchased t-shirts for the camarotes to watch the parade, I found myself IN the parade. People had come from all over to watch us dance our way down the street. It was a wild event, and I couldn’t believe I ended up in the middle of it. Picture 4,000 people all wearing the same neon orange tank top squeezed into a small New York City block, dancing to amazingly loud samba music. Now add a lot of alcohol and a sexually charged environment. That’s where I was. Part of the deal is a huge rope that surrounds the entire trio electrico and keeps out the people who haven’t paid. The result is that inside the rope it is very safe, and festive. All around me people were laughing and dancing and kissing, and having the time of their lives. Me included (except the kissing part). Outside the rope were the camarotes high above the street enjoying the slow moving parade and singing along, or throwing little commercial items into the crowd (like Burger King hankerchiefs or cellphone company stress balls). There were banners advertising beers and colas, and gym memberships. It was all surprisingly commercial. All throughout the crowd were venders selling Skol brand beer (the official sponsor of the Trio Electrico Jammill) and water and yummy Guaraná juice. Just outside the rope of the trio, and below the camarotes were throngs of people who just came to watch without paying. The entire night was a study in Brazilian race relations, because inside the trio ropes everyone was very light-skinned or white. The same was true for the people in the grandstand camarotes, but all of the faces in the crowds just outside the ropes were black. It was quite clear who were the haves and the have-nots.

Hours passed as we danced. People bought beers and they showered the crowd with them, and the heavens opened up and it rained down on us which just added to the whole party environment. For any of you who have seen the Matrix trilogy, it was just like the big tribal dance that happens in Zion in the third movie. At one point it occurred to me that I was dancing in the rain surrounded by electrical cables. Water and electricity are not always the best of friends, but I let that thought go with the pulsing music. And that music was amazing. All the Brazilians around us knew all the words, and the hand motions, and the dances that went with them. Every couple hours or so, some of the songs would repeat and we started to learn the words and totally began to feel like we belonged. It was mind-blowing. We danced and walked and sambaed from 8pm until 2am, and then I was done. A few other folks were ready to head back, and we pushed through the crowds to find a cab. I figured the parade was almost done, but I later came to find out that we left around the halfway mark. Oy vey! When we left, I bought some unidentified meat grilling on a stick and other things b/c I hadn’t eaten dinner (you better believe I had some Pepto first). Then we searched for a cab. We looked for 30 mins but they all seemed to be full. They we saw a cab in front of us with a couple people talking to the driver from outside. They didn’t get in and the cab drove on to where we were. We approached and gave him the address. The driver agreed to take us and we got into the cab to discuss a price. I was sitting next to the driver talking to him when suddenly a hand reached into the cab and grabbed the driver by the shirt and attempted to pull him out of the window. Suddenly the entire cab was surrounded by Brazilians all shouting at the driver and trying to tear him limb from limb. I ushered the students out of the car and off to the side of the road. Other cabs stopped and their drivers entered the fray. From what I could understand from their Portuguese, they were pissed off b/c the taxi driver didn’t take them, and instead drove on in order to pick up the touristy white American kids. We had unwittingly stepped in the middle of Brazilian race relations once again. They were very upset and ranted about taking the first person who comes to them. It reminded me a lot of news articles I’ve read about blacks in the United States not being able to get cabs in urban areas. I felt horribly guilty in that moment. The cab driver essentially said he had the right to take whoever he wanted. In the end the cab drivers there ushered us back into the cab and we drove quickly away from the entire situation. It was quite sobering… especially after 6 hours of dancing and very little sleep. I was glad to take a hot shower and get into my bed on the ship.

The next morning I met up with some of my staff friends and we joined the S@S trip called Bahia North Coast. The bus took us about 90 minutes north of Bahia to a brand new Natural Preserve. We saw exotic birds and white tufted marmacets (think little tiny monkeys with hairy white cheeks). Our guide Gisela (pronounced Geese-Uh-Luh) talked nonstop about our surroundings, and showed us a dreadful slide show. We were also taken to a “museum” filled with dead animals that had been stuffed for our viewing pleasure. I swear that every single story the woman told all day long was about death. We learned that Salvador is where older penguins come to die. It’s sort of the Boca Raton of the penguin world. We learned that the largest rodents in the world are called capivaras and they resemble R.O.U.S’s from the Princess Bride. We learned that Gisela has had many pets… each of whom died horrific deaths. She was incredibly morbid, and I had a very difficult time stifling a laugh every time she told a story. Ok, I’ll be honest. I didn’t even try. I laughed openly, and I am not sure she understood why. After our strange “Death Camp come Nature Preserve” experience we went to a small resort town called Guarajuba for what we were told would be “a delicious seafood luncheon.” Well, the resort wasn’t expecting us, and was not pleased we were there. We were told to swim for awhile while they prepared something. The beach was magnificent, with white sand, cool water, and huge waves. The lunch was not so magnificent. They didn’t serve us anything until 3pm, and what we got was fish stew full of bones, nasty Vatapá, and white rice. And what’s more, they didn’t even provide enough for each person to get a full portion. We were expected to share one dish for three people. Also, as we boarded the bus, Gisela had to come and collect extra money from all of us to pay for the drinks we had consumed waiting for the food. But, even though things didn’t really go as planned, I still had a good time. I’m trying to be as flexible as possible, and trying to see the bright side of things. Not so hard to do when traveling around the world (at 20 miles an hour).

After getting back to Salvador, I went to dinner with RD’s Dan, Melanie, and Tom, and Tom’s partner Emily. We took a cab to the Pelo which was now PACKED with people. We found a cool restaurant and ate some great food and watched Carnival happen all around us. In the Pelo, we saw people walking on stilts with huge paper machier (sp?) heads wandering about, and there were roving bands of musicians playing samba music with horns and drums. All of the roving bands wear fedoras and striped shirts. The only difference is the color of the stripes and the color of the band on their hats. I don’t know the origin of the outfit, but it was essentially the uniform of the groups. Each band of musicians had a small following that dance around them. After dinner we followed different groups around the main square. We’d leave one and join another when we got tired, dancing the whole way. People nearby were spraying “Axé Brasil” canisters, which are full of a foamy substance that looks somewhat like confetti, and smells like jasmine. The whole experience was intoxicating. Everything smelled like manioc and jasmine (and still a liiiitle like urine). We saw groups of older women dressed in huge native costumes that had been made out of foil coffee packages, or beer packages, or potato chip bags. They were so ornate, and these tiny little women were enjoying themselves so much. Again, the significance of the outfits was lost on me. I am sure they were not meant to advertise the brands, but they were very interesting. They paraded around a dias where a “king and queen” for each group was introduced and danced around in similar brand, but more ornate outfits. We saw a group of topless dancers who were painted completely silver. Two men and a woman that were 100% silver and shiny and dancing their booties off. All you could see was their smiles full of teeth gleaming through the silver paint. I bought a coconut and watched as it was hacked open in front of me and drank right from the hole. It was a unique experience, and I’m glad I got pictures since I don’t feel the need to repeat it. At any rate, we made our way back down the Lacerda Elevator and to the ship at a decent hour since we all had trips planned for the next day, me included as Rio was calling me!

I can’t believe how long this blog entry is, and I haven’t even gotten to my time in Rio. If you’ve stuck it out this far, then you are a good friend indeed. Kudos to you. And now, on to Rio.

So I made my way to the Union on the ship at 5am after sleeping not at all. I met most of the students for my trip and we prepared to set off. After waiting around for 20 minutes, we were still missing 3 of our students, but had to leave. Two caught us as we loaded the bus. They wanted me to wait so they could go grab a few more things since they hadn’t really packed very well. I believe my response was something like “37 people managed to pack and show up on time, and I’m not going to make them wait. If you get off the bus, I’m going to leave.” One of the lovely ladies then asked me why I had to be “such a cold bitch.” Ah… college students know just what to say to refresh me at 5:45am. Our final student never showed up. That meant she paid $1300 (non-refundable) and threw it in the toilet. How sweet, huh? We got to the airport and flew to Rio without much concern, and were met by our guide Eugenio. He loaded us onto an air conditioned bus and we drove through Rio de Janeiro. Now I must stop here and tell you that I have come to an important conclusion about the evolution of man. In our entire existence, we have invented many things. Fire, electricity, Cool Ranch Doritos, the internet, etc. None of these are as great as the invention of Air Conditioning. I thank God every day for this great gift. Anyways, as we drove through Rio, I learned that the name of the city is a big farce. Rio de Janeiro means “River of January” in Portuguese. Why would they call it that? Well, the Portuguese “discovered” the area on the first of January many many years ago. When they entered their “discovery” into their ship log, it was January 1. Also, they mistakenly though that this huge bay was really a river. Wrong they were, but the name stuck. People from the city refer to themselves as Cariocas. I choose to think this is in defiance to the crappy name some Portuguese dork gave them eons ago. My first impression of Rio was that it looked so clean and nice. Eugenio pointed out many of the favelas to us, and explained that most of the people in Rio live in the favelas. They have electricity, and water, and postal service, and all sorts of amenities. But they are far from perfect. His descriptions of people who have normal everyday jobs but live in the favelas really normalized them for me and the students.

We drove past the giant practice areas for the samba schools who were gearing up for the second night of competition in the Sambadromo (more on that later). Our first stop was at Pão de Açucar, also known as Sugarloaf Mountain. All around Rio, and through the bay area are huge rounded granite mountains that rise up from the earth. The city has grown in and around them. The mountains are covered in lush greenery, and it all feels very tropical. It doesn’t hurt that it’s summer here in South America. We all loaded up on two sets of cable cars to the top of the mountain and were rewarded with amazing views of Rio. I’ve read before that the three most beautiful water cities in the world are San Francisco, Sydney, and Rio de Janeiro, and not having seen Sydney, I’m willing to believe that without question. I am not certain how to describe this cosmopolitan, cultured, vibrant city. The beaches are gorgeous (as are the Brazilians on them), the landscape is dramatic and breathtaking, and the bay is spectacular. I snapped many a photo from up there. I can’t wait to share them. After leaving Sugarloaf, we were treated to lunch at a Churrascaria called Mariu’s. Brazilian churrascos are restaurants where they serve BBQ meats, and they are carved right onto your plate. I have no idea what they do to make the meat taste so good, but I have never, ever, ever, in my whole life tasted meat that was so flavorful. We ate filet mignon, top round, ribs, ribeye, chicken, pork, sausages, frog legs, seafood, sushi, carpaccio, crab legs, and then more from an array of other Brazilian delicacies. Mariu’s was an interesting place. It definitely felt like an upscale beachfront restaurant w/ haute Brazilian cuisine, but there were flower petals and peanut shells all over the floor, and the strangest collection of street signs, vintage alcohol posters and religious iconography on the walls. And in the bathroom, there were long dripping candles everywhere and the floor was covered with pebbles and beach glass. In fact, the sink was full of them as well, and the urinals were full of beach glass and ice. I’ve never peed in a more interesting place. I thought about snapping a picture, but then decided that might not go over well with the other folks using the bathroom. See, I can use my noggin every now and then.

(Time note. This blog is taking forever to write and it’s now 3 days later and I am quarantined in my cabin b/c I have the first CDC reportable case of diarrhea& flu for the voyage. Aren’t I a lucky dog! But I am going to try to use the time to catch up on my blogging).

After our superb luncheon we checked into our hotel. The Rio Othon Palace Copacabana is a 5 star hotel, and it’s right on Avenieda Atlántica (the beach). We were originally supposed to stay in a 3 star hotel, but a glitch with the travel company bumped us up. No complaints here. The hotel was nice, though surely not a 5 star by American standards. Because of our delinquent traveler who missed the flight we had an extra space, and when the rooms got reshuffled, I’ll be damned if I didn’t end up with my own room. Now just HOW did that happen??? =) So there I was, sitting on my 22nd floor balcony overlooking Copacabana Beach and Avenieda Atlántica during Carnival. I soaked up that atmosphere for about 30 minutes, watching the small blocos dancing down the beach, and the flea market along the street and the beachgoers. A word about the people of Rio. They are (and I don’t want to understate this) F***ING GORGEOUS. As a culture they are very health conscious, and I saw gyms everywhere. Walking around Rio made me reflect on how heavy Americans really are. I felt like a big ole fatty walking around Brazil. I got an eyeful of Brazilian babes b/c the beach was packed with people. I took a quick nap before meeting Eugenio and the students for our night at the Sambadromo. The evening began with a bad taste in my mouth b/c our guide asked around and sold 22 of the students tickets to the Sambadromo for about 360 Real (about $125). The problem is, that me and 8 students paid $395 US through S@S. He tried to sell it that our seats were much better and therefore worth the price differential. But it was not the case. In the end, I got over it. We all loaded onto public buses and then the subway for our trip to the Sambadromo. The samba schools that compete in the big Carnival competitions are huge community clubs that put on these huge shows. The people in the parades are of all ages and shapes and sizes. While we were on the subway, we watched as people joined our car at each station. Many of them were dressed in huge costumes with in all sorts of bright colors. And they were so proud. That was the best part. For that day, they were all celebrities. I remember one group in particular. It was three men, and a woman. Two of them men were black teens, the other man was in his 30s and the woman was in her 50s. They were in tight lycra suites and had giant pink feather boa type headdresses attached, and they were so proud of their ridiculous garb. I was proud for them. I’m so glad we took the subway, if only for the glimpse into real Rio culture. For the record, Rio’s subway was very clean and modern. Yet another example of why it is such an amazing city. I’m not sure what I expected from the Sambadromo, but I was surprised by the reality. It looks a bit like a NASCAR racetrack. It has a wide lane surrounded by tall grandstands where spectators sit and cheer on their favorite schools. Our tickets had us sitting right in the middle of the long track and across from the judges. We got there at 9pm for the start of the first school. 13 samba schools made it into the big competition time this year. The first six competed on Sunday night, and we were set to see the next 7 perform on Monday. I learned all about the very strict rules of the competition. Each school has only 90 minutes for their presentation and must have the entire parade complete the course in that time. Each school must use between 2500 and 4500 participants in their parades, so as you can imagine they are huge shows. Each procession is judged on percussion, sambo do enredo (the theme song), harmony, song & dance, choreography, costumes, story line, floats, & decorations. The competition is always hotly contested, and the winner is the pride of both Rio & all of Brazil. The parades begin in moderate mayhem and work themselves up to a fevered frenzy. From the distance, the procession looks like a single living organism. It’s a throbbing beast that slowly comes closer – a pulsing, glittering, Japanese-movie-monster, slime-mold threatening to engulf all of Rio in samba. And everyone in the grandstands is singing along with them b/c all the samba schools songs’ and themes’ are flooded on the airwaves the weeks running up to Carnival. Phew! The only good way to describe a samba school presentation is to take the Opening Ceremony for the Olympics, multiply it times 10, and then give it a Superbowl competition feel. And then remember that this happened 7 times all in one night. It was exhausting, but you didn’t want to miss a single moment.

I managed to stay awake for 5 of the 7 schools, and finally had to grab a cab back to the hotel around 5am b/c I knew I wouldn’t be able to stand and dance through the last two. That was sad b/c the last two were supposed to be the best two, and in the end the winner of Carnival this year was Beija Flor, the last school to perform. The themes were varied and diverse. Three of the presentations dealt with African themes. One in support of Mandela and South Africa, one honored the diversity of African culture, and a third about the African influence on Brazilian culture. The other two were very tongue-in-cheek, one dealt with all manners of pictures, and showed pictures coming to life, and phases of people’s life where they take a lot of pictures, and famous people and places that are photographed a lot. It was really unique and inventive. The school was named Unidos da Tijuca and I thought they had a good chance to win. They ended up placing 8th. Shows what I know. Another great one was by Viradouro who used a game/casino theme and turned everything upside down. Their floats were upside down, their costumes were upside down… everything. Another favorite of mine was by the Portela school who did a theme based on Greece. It had a strong Olympic Games under current, but also hit on the Greek Gods and Pan Am Games which will be in Rio during 2007. It was so fun to watch. It seemed to be the crowd favorite, and placed 4th overall. I’ve got some awesome pictures of the costumes and floats. Words can’t describe them more than I have, so I’m not even going to try.

The next morning… well I should say afternoon, since I slept till noon, I walked down the block to a local luncheonette, called Big Nectar, and had myself a smoothie made from açai berries, which only grow in the Amazon and have more cancer fighting doodads than any other fruit. I paired that with a nice Misto Queche, which is like a fluffy grilled ham & cheese sandwich made from cured Brazilian ham and gooey local cheese. It was “muy bom” (very good). After my lunch/snack I climbed into open air jeeps with the students and we drove up up up Corcovado Mountain to visit Cristo Redentor. He’s better known as Christ the Redeemer, and is the mondo statue of Christ that stands watch over and blesses the entire city of Rio. Corcovado means Hunchback, and the mountain does rise like a hunchback over the city. The statue is 38 meters tall (which translate to mega-majorly huge) and has a placid expression on his face. The statue is made of solid concrete and is covered with tiny triangular soapstone tiles to protect it from the elements. The view from atop Corcovado is unparalleled. The left arm of Christ points out to Maracanã, the world’s largest soccer stadium (I had to give a nod to futból since I was in Brazil). I took a ton of photos from up there. Ah, Rio. Such an amazing town.
On our way up and down the mountain we passed more favelas and crowds of children and locals sitting by the road. They would always wave and cheer, and shout friendly welcomes. The friendly nature of people in Rio was so different than what we had experienced in Salvador. Like night and day, really. Once we got back down the mountain we changed into our bloco t-shirts and joined one the bloco for the Clube do Samba. Blocos in Rio are very different than in Salvador. In Rio they are much smaller, community oriented, less exclusive, and not so comercial. They travel along the beach, and people literally come right off the beach and join the parade for awhile. They are local affairs and a lot more spontaneous. The city shuts down a couple of lanes of traffic during Carnival to let them pass on the main thoroughfare, and they intertwine and samba along. Each one repeats its song as it goes, and Cluba do Samba’s song sounded like it was about a woman selling fruit, but truth be told, I’m not sure… but it sure was catchy. Little by little the students all wandered off to find their own parties for the night, and I found myself alone in the bloco, which suited me fine. Eventually, I also wandered back to the hotel and changed into my swimsuit. I walked across the street and swam in the Atlantic on Copacabana Beach. The water was cold, and full of silt, but the waves were nice and big. Since the sun was setting, most people had left for the day, and the air was charged as people prepped for the last night of Carnival. I went up to the rooftop pool and swam a bit more and talked to some of the students. A few of us decided to grab food at a nearby buffet frequented by locals. It was a scaled down version of the churrascaría from the previous day, but cheaper. The place was called Kilograma. The concept is that you load your plate with whatever you want, and then it is weighed. You pay by weight. A nice idea if you ask me. And daaaaamn good eatin’ too. We had a leisurely dinner, and the next thing we knew, it was after midnight. That took us by surprise, because the restaurant was still full of people eating dinner. I dropped the students back at the hotel as they were going to a club in the Leme district w/ friends, and I wandered over to Ipanema. I found the Rua Farme do Amodeo, which is a famous street full of clubs and bars catering to a more liberal crowd. The street was packed full of people. Just as I arrived, everyone suddenly poured down the street towards the water. I followed, and a huge beach party/rave ensued. I walked around and chit-chatted with folks and danced a little, waded in the water a bit. It was fun. Next thing I knew it was 3am. I took a cab back to the hotel and found a bunch of my students in the lobby drunk as skunks. They were trying to find another hotspot at which to continue their party. They must not have had much luck as they decided to prank call my room a few times and knock on my door. It was all in good fun, and luckily they didn’t wake me as I was sitting on my balcony again, watching Carnival rage on the street and beach below, even at 4am!

I awake bright and early at 8:30am and called all the student rooms, and somehow they all managed to show up, and make the bus with their passports in hand. Many of them were hungover, and a couple were still drunk, but they were all present and accounted for. I don’t want to give the impression that they were all drunk and out of hand, b/c many of them were quite responsible, and I enjoyed their company a great deal (well, most of them). We had a nice uneventful flight back to Salvador. I got back to the ship and quickly went out to mail some postcards, grab a bite to eat, and purchase some souveniers. I got myself a wooden statuette of a fist making a gesture called the “fig” which means long life and health in Brazil. I think I bargained a good price for it. I also bought a berimbau, which is a musical instrument that looks a bit like a bow & arrow. I got worked over real good by the salesman. He clearly knew he had a sucker in me. He offered 90 Real as an opening price. I countered with 30 Real. I ended up paying 45 Real. I thought I did Ok. Till I immediately turned around and saw a berimbau I liked a lot more, for 10 Real less. And I later had dinner with a student who bought essentially the same berimbau as me for $5 US, or about 10 Real. Grrrr… I am chalking it up as a lesson learned. It will make me better at bargaining in future ports.

Much like in San Juan the students did a good job of getting back on the ship by on-ship time. The exception were three of my residents. A guy named Jared who is on my Jew Crew, and two roommates who are also both Mexican nationals and both named David. A number of students reported about their whereabouts, and their recent run-ins with the local police, and after 45 minutes we started to be worried if they would make the ship before we left. I was especially worried, b/c I really enjoy Jared and the Davids. In the end they arrived about an hour late b/c they had ordered an expensive dinner and wanted to enjoy it. Trust that they are being sternly dealt with & won’t make the same mistake again. We departed on time at 2300 hours, and began our 8 day voyage across the Atlantic. More on this eventful leg of the journey soon. Much love to all back home.

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Hangin' with the Arch


Me and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. How cool, huh?


Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Cabin Photos

Here are a couple photos of my cabin for any interested folks. I'll also throw in one of the gangway. Then read below for more tales of the trip.


XOXO -me



Equitorial Archbishop Valentine's



Happy Valentine’s Day. Guess what!?! I officially crossed the Equator a couple hours ago. Just like the NFL’s infamous yellow line, there was a bright green line painted across the ocean and the ship “bumped” as we crossed the Equator and journeyed forth into the Southern Hemisphere. Who’da thunk? I took a few pictures to commemorate. I’ll do my best to upload one or two. We’ll see how successful I am. One is of most of the Student Life Team, though none of us look very good in it, and the second is of me and RD Lesley. We did some silly pictures too, but I'll save those for the slide show when I return.

The last few days have been incredibly hectic. I’m glad to say that things have finally settled into a routine. First, there’s Global Studies in the morning, (followed by a nap) then the Student Life Team meeting, then working in the office or the Student Life Desk, student group meetings, AFTerHours, and then an hour or so hanging out with fellow staff members in the Faculty/Staff Lounge (a.k.a. my favorite place on the ship). Time seems to be sailing by, pardon the pun. Speaking of Global Studies, the class has proven to be pretty interesting. There have been a couple of classes in particular that shared interesting info. I leanred all about the First, Second and Third world nations and their distinctions (second world nations aligned with the USSR in the Cold War). Yesterday was a great class on Ecological Sustainability. I never knew studying the environment could be so much fun. Today’s class was on global oppression, specifically as it exists in Brazil... fascinating stuff. The class is team taught by all of the professors on board, each speaking on their areas of expertise. We’ve already lost two hours since leaving the Bahamas, and we will be loosing another 4 between Brazil and South Africa. I think that means my attendance at Global Studies will start to wane as my need for sleep increases. I’m not supposed to play hooky, but I’m hoping you all won’t tell. Cool?

Our first day back on board we had our Activities Fair, which was a huge success. I had a table set with 8 groups ranging from my spirituality groups (Bible Study, “Jew Crew,” Spirituality Programming Committee, and Religious Exploration) and my diversity groups (Women @ Sea, People of Color @ Sea, LGBTA @ Sea, and Diversity Programming Committee). 8 groups in all, but students came around and decided to create another few groups. My favorite group is the Organized Atheists. It was two guys who wanted an alternative to all the “Bible study crap,” as they put it. I told them they could hold meetings in their room, and be co-Presidents if they so chose. That seemed to suit them just fine. As things were winding down, Ron Wisner (“the Voice”) came by and put a buzz in my ear. I received a very special invitation.

The next morning, Archbishop Desmond Tutu himself was going to hold a small Eucharistic service in the Executive Dean’s cabin, and I had been invited. It was to be a small affair with the Dean’s and their partners, the Director of Student Life, Administrative Assistant Shayla (who is one of my favorite people) and a few students. I was asked to choose a few students to bring along. 7:30 the next morning, I found myself sitting in one of the posh 7th deck cabins with the Archbishop and about 10 others for a small mass, led by Tutu himself. The realization that I was in the middle of the Atlantic being honored with a private service from the Nobel winner himself, was dizzying. He is such a small man in terms of stature, but he really fills a room with his personality. He always seems to be smiling, and is very gracious. He shook hands with each person in the room and made a point to connect with everyone. He gave a short sermon during the service and spoke about the infinite love of God and the concept of eternity in Heaven. He said that even though people will be in Heaven for all eternity, no one will ever be bored. This is because time flies when you’re having fun, and there is no greater joy than experiencing the infinite love of God. He described Hell as a place with a table heavy with delicious food but surrounded by thin hungry sad people with spoons too long to feed themselves. In Heaven, it is the same scene, but the people there are jolly and fat because they use their long spoons to feed one another. He spoke a lot about developing community. It was awe inspiring.

What was not awe-inspiring was the first night of beverage service at our AFTer Hours, which we hold in the pool bar on 7th Deck. The new system they are using has the folks purchasing drink cards and then getting their cards stamped for each drink they purchase. They can redeem the card for a new one once it is full of stamps. They are limited to 6 drinks a night, 2 at dinner and 4 at AFTer Hours. You’d think that 6 drinks would be enough, but they all seem to complain that they aren’t able to get drunk. Needless to say, I’m not very sympathetic to their plight. The first night we held AFTer Hours, the students swarmed and tried to get as many drinks as they could. Once they realized they weren’t going to get more than the 10 allotted to them, they sort of gave up and left. Today, being Valentine’s Day and all, the crowd was the biggest yet, and the students were really out of hand. I was stuck with the fun task of policing the line to stop people from cutting. I have never been disrespected as much as I was this evening. It brought my spirits down. The only thing that made it OK was that a lot of the students were really thankful that I stopped people from cutting the line. I’ve decided that I really enjoy almost every aspect of my job, even staffing the Student Life Desk in Purserer’s Square. The only thing I don’t enjoy is working AFTer Hours. Well, no job is perfect, right?

We’re losing two folks from the voyage so far. One of them is a woman who decided to remove herself from the voyage in Puerto Rico. She was dealing with a lot of issues, and had recently begun counseling. Evidently she felt like she would be able to cope through the voyage but realize pretty quickly that it wouldn’t work out that way. The second loss is one of our Lifelong Learners named Bill. He is in his 80s and started to have chest pains. He’s spending the last couple days till we get to Salvador in the ship hospital, and then will return to the US. Oddly, while he was in the hospital, he kept asking to see me. The other Lifelong Learners came down to visit, as did staff and administrators, but the only person he wanted to speak with was me. This seemed really strange to the hospital staff, and definitely weird to me. I had only had one short conversation with Bill to gauge his interest in being a part of our Bible Study groups. When I went in to see him, he ended up talking for about an hour about his faith, and his family, and the books he was reading. He showed me photos of his grandkids and jabbered on about things. Even now, I don’t really understand why Bill felt connected to me and wanted to see me, but I hope I was able to provide some comfort for him. I’m going to go back and visit a couple more times before we get to Brazil.

I’ve held a ton of meetings in the last couple of days, and met with almost all of my student groups, which has given me the chance to interact with a whole new batch of students. They are all really activated, and want to be involved, and make a difference and connect. I’ve had some great conversations with our students of color, and connected really well with our Jewish students. I don’t know how it has happened so quickly but they are comfortable coming to me with their concerns. I think this is in large part to the fact that there are not many people of color on the staff. The Christian students have also taken to me since I am the one leading the charge to form Bible study groups and Spiritual Programs. I’m pretty excited to see what all these students come up with in their new groups. I’m guessing the fruits of their labors will start to show up on our next leg between Brazil and South Africa.

Well, the lights of the coast of Brazil are visible off the starboard side of the ship. We’ll be following the coast for the next couple of days till we reach the port. Not a bad way to end the night… seeing the twinkling lights in the distance. A couple days back we sailed between the island nations of St. Lucia and Martinique and then came with 20 miles of Barbados. It was a fun day sailing through the Lesser Antillies. Well, time for bed. I miss you all. Happy Valentines Day to everyone back home.

XOXO -me

Monday, February 12, 2007

Adios San Juan

Adios Isla del Encanto! It’s been a few days since we left Puerto Rico, and I’ve been so busy I haven’t had a chance to sit down and collect my thoughts into a blog. Don’t worry, it’s a good kind of busy. We had our Activities Fair, and now I have 16 meetings with 8 new student groups to organize before we get to Salvador de Bahia, Brazil in 3 days. But, while I have many new ship life stories to share, I am going to attempt to be chronological and discuss PR next.

I have to admit, I was treating Puerto Rico as a bit of a “throw away” port. I mean, afterall, it’s part of the United States, right? I figured it would be a good starter port for everyone to begin to understand the workings of Semester at Sea. That part was true, but when we pulled out of San Juan Harbor, I realized how great my time there really was. Back to the beginning…

We woke very early our first day in port in order to clear immigration. We were told in advance that immigration in PR would likely be our most rigorous of the voyage, since the US has strict guidelines post 9-11. The immigration officials demanded to meet face-to-face with every passenger on the ship, with their passports in hand before clearing us to go ashore. The staff alone took 30 minutes, and then funneling the students through took another 2 ½ hours. A few of the field trips were delayed as a result and people weren’t thrilled for the delay. Part of the delay was that a few people didn’t think they needed to go through immigration b/c they weren’t planning on disembarking, or other nonsense, and a couple just felt like taking their sweet ass time b/c they were spoiled as children (ok… I may be reaching there). One of my residents was the last guy to saunter up and go through the process. When I had the sheer audacity (sarcasm intended) to tell him he would likely receive dock time for holding our entire process, he went off on me. It was all I could do not to laugh in his face. Somehow, I managed. Before we were able to disembark, the Governor of Puerto Rico came aboard for our diplomatic briefing. It’s an honor that he came aboard, since last Spring they just sent the Sec. of State. There was a ton of PR news cameras and journalists who came aboard as well, and I was astounded about the coverage our arrival had stirred. Then, Desmond Tutu walked past me into the Union, and there were flash bulbs everywhere. This is the first time the student body had seen the Archbishop, except briefly in passing. Oddly, he was not formerly introduced, but the Governor welcomes us all, and paid specific intention to our Nobel Laureate. Something tells me they’ll be rolling out the red carpet in all of our ports, thanks to the Ace we have up our sleeves. If you can travel with a Nobel Prize winner, I highly recommend it. I was really pleased with the students on board. They packed the Union, and were really excited to hear from the Governor. He was treated as a rockstar, and that made me realize that many of them really are a part of this program for the right reason, to explore the world. The Governor’s remarks were very enlightening. He discussed the precarious relationship between Puerto Rico and the US. PR does not pay federal taxes, nor do they have a voice in Congress, or an electoral vote for the US President. However, they have faught in every War since the early 1900s. Puerto Ricans are Puerto Ricans first and foremost, and secondly they are Americans. They would never describe themselves as Puerto Rican-American. They’re completely separate identities. PR is the smallest of the islands of the Greater Antilles, and has the most tourism of all the islands in the Caribbean (which surprised me). It belonged to Spain for over 400 years, and as a result has a tremendous Spanish and European influence in the culture and architecture. The US “liberated” PR during the Spanish-American War and that’s when they became part of the US. Sorry if this reads like a history lesson, but if I don’t type it all out, I’ll forget once we get to Brazil and I fill my head with new/interesting/Brazilian facts.

So when we were finally off the ship a big group of staff members decided to walk into Old San Juan and check out the city. There were about 14 of us walking around and learning about the city. The weather was perfect the entire time we were in PR, and so it was warm, and bit humid but with an awesome breeze. Walking through Old San Juan was great b/c the homes and buildings look very Old World European. In fact, it reminded me of Rome and Milan with all the narrow streets, balconies, and coble stone streets. The big difference is that all the buildings are painted in bright Caribbean colors with white trim. One building will be bright blue, followed by an eye popping Orange, then pale pink, and a lime green… and on and on. The effect is charming. We learned that if you buy a home in Old San Juan, you cannot change the façade or the color of the home. I think that’s a great idea. Our first stop of the day was to visit the Castle Fort San Cristóbal Colón. Yes, they named the forst after Saint Christopher Columbus. The entire day, I kept wondering WHO sainted Christopher Columbus? The man who “found the New World” also killed thousands, enslaved thousands more, and spread disease, yet now he is a saint? Sheesh! But I digress, the fort was interesting, and overlooks the water, and has lots of authentic cannons which were used to repel the French, and English on a number of occasions. One of the more interesting architectural details I saw was that the entire city of Old San Juan is surrounded by a huge stone wall (built by the Columbus’ slaves no less). And set into these stone walls are small ornate look out posts that jut out over the water. They are really fun details and one of their national symbols (it’s on their license plates). Cool stuff. We also checked out “El Morro.” El Morro is the second, and larger fort in Old San Juan. It is positioned at the head of San Juan Harbor and protected the city for thousands of years. In fact, San Juan was considered the best defended port, and many a pirate failed in their attempted to plunder the Spanish “Chest of Gold.” El Morro was also quite cool, and full of more cannons, great views, and other fun things. Next to El Morro was a huge cemetery full of ornate graves for all of the old families of San Juan. The grave sites were beautiful with huge mausoleums and statues. Some of the sites had up to 16 people in them (and I’m guessing they’re stacked on top of one another… not sure how else they would fit). There was a small area where children had been buried, and a low tree hung over them. The tree had no leaves, and its branches were laden with small toys and stuffed animals. It was pretty very Blair Witch, and pretty eerie. The stray cats wandering around didn’t help, but overall it was very interesting from an anthropological and sociological standpoint.

Between the two forts, the group of staffers broke off into a couple different groups. My group went to get lunch at a restaurant recommended by our Puerto Rican S@S student. Roberto met an S@S professor a couple years back when the voyage arrived into San Juan. The professor described the program and recruited Roberto who raised the tuition money to be a part of our voyage. Go Roberto! Anyways, we went to “La Fonda El Jibarito” for our lunch. It wasn’t until later that I learned the name loosely translates to “the working man’s Starbucks” (no joke). I used my Spanish a bunch on this trip, but it failed me here. Lunch was a pork/maize dish that was yummy, but the highlight was a side dish called Mofongo. Mmmm Mofongo is a national dish made from plantains mashed and cooked with LOTS of garlic and butter. It was amazingly good. I was breathing and sweating garlic most of the day, but I’d eat in again in a heartbeat!

It was about halfway through the day when my camera decided to die on me. I swear, I really am the most techno-stupid person I know. After spending WAY too much energy and brainpower trying to fix it I realized the batteries were dead. It sucks those puppies down. After my battle royale with the camera, a few of us wandered around Old San Juan some more and stumbled across Cristo Street which has all sorts of posh retail stores. I was a little surprised (and let down) to see stores like Tommy Hilfiger (not sure how to spell it) and Banana Republic, and Harry Winston Jewelers. But there were some nice local stores interspersed. We stopped by Maria’s Bar and had some great frozen margaritas to quench our thirsts. Maria’s is a little hole in the wall right next door to the Governor’s Mansion, and it became the local hangout for our little staff crew. Maria herself works behind the bar and was always good for a laugh or two (provided you had a frosty beverage in front of you). After discovering Maria’s we wandered on and stumbled upon El Parque de las Palomas. Pigeon’s Park is a small square full of literally hundreds of pigeons. The birds are so domesticated at this point that they eat right out of your hand. A couple of kids had already tossed a bunch of corn on the ground and when we strolled into the park, the birds surrounded us and coo’ed as they ate. The sound they made sounded very much like a heartbeat thumping around you in stereo. If that wasn’t eerie enough, I put my arms out straight on either side, and the next thing I knew, the pigeons had flown up and perched on my arms. A couple even landed on my head and shoulders. I felt like a living scarecrow. After snapping a couple of pictures, I shoo’ed them off of me. I know it doesn’t sound exciting, but trust me, it was pretty damn cool. And the best part about it… we all left the park completely free of bird shit. I never woulda believed it. At this point, I made the trek back to the ship to clean up before my evening field program.

Because our ship was going to be docked for three days, we weren’t allowed to park at the cruise ship dock. The cruise ships got to park right at Old San Juan. Instead, we were down at the Naval piers a good 15 minutes walk from anything worth seeing. Once I finally made it back to the ship, I realized I had a little extra time before my trip to Bioluminescent Bay. I decided to put the time to good use and took a dip in the ship pool. It was the first time I could make it out there when there wasn’t a sea of lithe Coppertone commercial bodies out there. The dip in the tiny pool was just what the doctor ordered and I was prepared for my excursion.

I loaded up a busload of students, and we drive an hour from San Juan to the city of Fajardo. When we arrived they placed us into our kayaks I was teamed up with a tiny little student named Julie. They decided that Julie would counterbalance my huge manly frame. What’s more, the other kayakers laughed when they passed us b/c evidently the front half of the kayak was a good half a foot outside of the water. The back end (guess where I was sitting) was riding kind of low. As we’re kayaking through the channel, Julie keeps commenting on how easy kayaking is, and how great a workout she was getting. I told her I would stop paddling so she could see how it felt, and then we stopped dead in the water. Go figure! Anyways, we popped into the kayaks and paddled through a long dark channel to a huge lagoon. The water in the channel and lagoon was full of billions of dynoflagelites that fluoresce when you move them. It was absolutely amazing. I don’t think I can come up with adjectives to describe how cool it was. They glow a bright blue/green/white color wherever they are struck. Each time the paddle went into the water it lit up. We were allowed to hop into the lagoon and swim around, and then your entire body glowed when you moved your arms and legs. Even sitting in the kayak, the water running down your arms or legs looked like little sparkles or fireworks. We were very lucky because the night was clear, and the moon had already set. Here’s your fact of the day: All natural waters in the world have dynoflagelites. From lakes, to oceans, to streams… all of them. The difference is that there are more of them in the waters in Puerto Rico. The concentration is so high, that they cling to one another which makes them visible when they are disturbed and release their energy and floresce. There are only 4 places with bioluminescence in the world, and three of them are in Puerto Rico. When people see red tides in California, it is not the same thing. Red tides are the result of parasites in the water which destroy the waterlife. Cool stuff huh?

Phew, and that was just day 1!! Day 2, I took things a little easier. I slept in a bit, and then after lunch on the ship, I wandered into Old San Juan and took some pictures, and revisited the pigeons in the park. No one was around to take my picture, and the pigeons were keeping their feet on the ground, so I kept moving along. I made a point of checking out Catedral San Jose. San Jose Cathedral in the middle of the city. It is the second oldest church in the western hemisphere, and a very cool site to behold. There were some neat relics inside, and I really appreciated all the history. I also went into the Puerto Rican Capitol building and got some great shots of the dome. Eventually I made my way back to the ship to meet up with my RD colleagues for dinner. We headed back into the city and had amazing Puerto Rican tapas in a restaurant called El Picoteo (the rooster). The restaurant is inside El Convento Hotel. It is an old convent that has been converted into a hotel with a huge open courtyard, and intereting dark bars and candelabras. It was very cool inside and the food was outstanding. I also had two of the best Mojitos I have ever. Fellow RD Matt, and I stopped by a little cigar shop next door and were each given a couple of free cigars to sample. I tried one that had been cured in vanilla, and we were dipping them in rum and smoking them in the streets of San Juan. It was definitely a fun memory. I met up with another group of RDs and staffers and went back to El Picoteo while they ate dinner. Then we moved over to Maria’s to enjoy more of the local culture. Afterwards, I took a cab to El Condado, a more modern part of San Juan outside the old city, and checked out a few bars and clubs. I met some nice folks before heading back to the ship for the night.

Day 3 started bright and early loading up a couple buses for a trip to the rainforest. El Yunque is the name of the rainforest preserve in Puerto Rico. It was pretty impressive driving up the mountainside and into the rainforest. I was picturing a huge canopy of trees going thousands of feet into the air, but the reality felt like a very wet forest. It was indeed lush and tropical, but on a slightly smaller scale than I had assumed it would be. Plus, the entire hike was along paved paths. It was still fun, but this was in large part to our guide. Her name was Carolina and she was the funniest little lady you ever met. She was a black Puerto Rican in her 50s who danced around and preached at us the whole way. She ahred all sorts of tidbits about the island, and the people, and all the vegetation we saw as we walked through the rainforest. She discussed the Taíno Indians who were the original inhabitants of PR, but have not existed for 40 years. She told us all that Puerto Ricans are so attractive because they are a mixture of the Taínos, African slaves, and Spanish colonists. She used JLo as an example, talking about her African booty, Taíno carmel skin, and long luxurious Spanish hair. Carolina really cracked us all up. She kept pointing out all the little roadside vendors who sell fruit and friend foods, and little snacks. These vendor treats are called “Freaky Tings” and are eated by all the locals when they drive around the island. Carolina would point and giggle and laugh about all the “freaky tings, freaky tings.” You couldn’t help to laugh. She also discussed that the lifestyle for Puerto Ricans was to work hard all week, and then have Social Weekends spent drinking Bacardi (made on the island) and other local drinks. She and the driver discussed their favorite concoctions for a good portion of the trip. Everyone got a kick out of their banter, me included. We stopped for lunch at a small restaurant called “El Dajao” (no idea of the translation) and had the best and most authentic food I’ve ever had. It was rice cooked with spices, and stewed chicken that fell off the bone, there were black beans, and fried plantains, and flan… my mouth waters just remembering it all. After lunch we hot Luquillo Beach and enjoyed the warm Caribbean waters with a view of El Yunque and the mountains in the background. It was quite picturesque. I also admired the horrible sunburns that many of our students had received as a result of laying by the ship’s pool for hours each day. Sheesh.

Once we got back to the ship, I only had a couple of hours before I had to be back on the ship to welcome our students back on board before we left Puerto Rico. I used the time to head back into Old San Juan where I bought a few souveniers. I had asked some locals what kind of things would be authentic as opposed to cheap touristy stuff. In the end, I bought a Gypsy Kings CD, and a couple of musical instruments. I got a set of Maracas made from gourds, and an instrument called Guiro also made from a gourd that you scratch like a washing board. I also stopped into Maria’s and said goodbye to the place, and then hit a hat shop called Olé, and bought a Panama Hat, but in the Puerto Rican style. The PR styles are linen/straw fedoras with a black ribbon around the top. The PR style hats are called Plenaros and have short brims. The wider brimmed styles are called Jibaros, and were worn by sugar cane farmers in the field, but the Plenaro style is worn by the musicians in the cities, and the men of PR in their guyabera shirts. I was very pleased with my purchases. I enjoyed a quick taco dinner at an outdoor café where I sat and journaled for a bit as I listened to the sounds of San Juan around me. In reflection, I really think I go a true taste of the rich culture in Puerto Rico, and I hope to return for more exploration sometime soon. I stopped by Pueblo supermarket on the way and purchased 4 crates of Coke (b/c it’s expensive on the ship, and let’s face it… I have an addiction). I hopped a cab back and prepared for an onslaught of drunk students coming back to the ship at the last minute. But that wasn’t our reality. Turns out that with an hour to spare before on-ship time, only 175 people were left to return. In the end, the RD’s goofed around and had fun chatting with the students as they came back. The only people who were late were a group of women who had their belongings locked in a cab and they called ahead to let us k now. Everyone else was on board and just forgot to swipe their ID cards upon returning to the ship. I think everyone was surprised at how easily things went, crew included. We only saw a couple students who were clearly drunk, and we only found a couple of bottles of liquor trying to be smuggled on board. JR is our conduct officer, and he was really putting the fear of God into people when he checked their bags. He opened every compartment, and patted down every pocket. He also opened every bottle of shampoo, and suntan lotion, and everything else, and tasted them all to make sure they weren’t actually emptied and filled with booze. JR was weary of a bottle of bugspray and was convinced that it was vodka. The smell was subtle, but he was sure it was really booze and not actually Deet. Eventually he came over to me with the bottle opened and said, “yea, it’s booze. Taste it.” So being the trusting soul that I am, I put the bottle to my lips and tasted it... only to discover that it was actually 40% Deet bugspray. The RD staff and JR really got a kick out of that, while I convulsed and spat, and scraped my tongue for about 10 minutes. JR finally admitted that it really was bugspray. I laughed it off, until an hour later when the stomache cramps set in. I spent the next four hours shitting my brains out and cursing JR in many different languages. It’s now three days later, and I still haven’t lived it down. JR has taken to calling me “the Deetmeister” and I’ve had to tell the story many times. It’s actually one of my fondest memories from San Juan. Is that strange?

As we watched the lights of San Juan sail away into the distance, I realized just how much I had enjoyed my time in PR. I also realized how many great people I’ve met since I started this trip. I have people around who are genuine and fun, and always there for a quick laugh. They are committed and we don’t let each other get too stressed out. I enjoy their company and am glad to have another 90+ days to go. (so long as no one else tries to get me to drink the Deet!).